The Dake B-10 model manual utility hydraulic bench press uses a single-speed hydraulic handpump to lower the ram with up to 10 tons of force to facilitate pressing and forming. The channel iron H-frame accepts large and bulky items, and the hoist adjusts the table height for proper positioning. The workhead is movable to adjustment for off-center pressing. The hydraulic cylinder and pump handle can be positioned on either side of the press to maximize workspace and comfort. The release valve turns to release the hydraulic pressure, initiating ram return after downstroke. Closing the valve at any point during the ram return will halt the ram.
Two interchangeable ram noses are included: a flat nose piece for use in standard pressing operations and a step-reduced nose piece for supporting, positioning, or fitting into pieces when pressing. The two table plates provide support during pressing. The press has a gauge with a 2-1/2"-dia. display for pressure readings. The base has four 7/16"-dia. holes for bench mounting. Mounting hardware is not included. Hydraulic oil is not included. Press requires some assembly.
|Load capacity||10 tons|
|Max. working height||16 inches|
|Min. working height||4 inches|
|Ram travel||6 inches|
|Table dimensions||16-3/4 x 3 inches (W x L)|
|Press overall dimensions||36 x 23 x 18 inches (H x W x L)|
H is height, the vertical distance from the lowest to highest point of the press; W is width, the horizontal distance from left to right; L is length, the horizontal distance from front to back.
Hydraulic presses use fluid pressure to transmit a compressive force, which stays constant throughout the length of the ram's stroke. Metal forming is one common use of a hydraulic press.
Dake Machine Tools manufactures arbor presses, hydraulic presses, drill presses, power hammers, band and cold saws, belt grinders, tube benders, and auto feed systems. The company, founded in 1887, is headquartered in Grand Haven, MI.What's in the Box?
I am a gardener-a-holic. I have three acres and I am continually adding and fine tuning all the beds. In the garden there are collections of over 300 different hosta, several hundred daylilies, thousands and thousands of narcissus and early spring bulbs, allium, lillium, and numerous other perennials, bushes, shrubs, and trees. I have been in business designing gardens and landscapes for both homes and commercial buildings for the past ten years. I continue my own education in Horticulture on the graduate level as well as teaching garden classes, giving garden seminars at the Chicago Botanical Garden, the Morton Arboretum and to garden groups.
My garden is featured in Midwest Gardens, by Pamela Wolfe and Gary Irving and has been featured in newspaper articles, Country Home Country Gardens, and the Chicago Magazine. My garden will be on the Garden Conservancy Walk in the summer of 2000.
Over the years I have developed a hands-on garden class and from the many questions asked in these sessions have come up with a list of questions frequently asked.
QUESTION: I have just moved in a new house and I want to landscape. What is the first thing I should do?
I. Evaluate the yard by charting when you have sun and for how long a period of time. This will tell you whether you should be looking for plants that require a lot of sun or plants that need filtered sun or shade.
II. Identify any drainage problems or areas that are very dry. Most plants do not like to have wet feet especially in the winter. Standing water for a period of time will kill many plants.
III. Know what zone your are in . This tells you what plants will live under the coldest temperatures in your area. This does not tell you how these plants in your zone will handle your heat extremes, soil conditions, wind conditions, etc.
IV. Decide how much work you want to do in maintaining your yard. If you are not going to do much yard work then you will be using shrubs, ground covers and other plants that do not require as much attention as a totally perennial garden.
V. Make an outline of the beds you think you want with a garden hose. Look at these lines from all directions. If you have an upstairs view these lines from there. You want large sweeping curves rather than sharp straight lines unless you are developing a very formal garden. In nature the lines are not straight or sharp because they usually have developed over time with weather, wind and water shaping them.
VI. Once you have the lines set, remove any grass at the sod level and dispose of or break it up and put on your compost pile to be later mixed with leaves and other refuse from your yard and coffee grounds, etc from your kitchen.
VII. Now the most important step is the soil preparation. Depending upon the area you are from there are kinds of organic materials available that should be incorporated into your beds. Here in the Chicago area we are able to get mushroom compost. It is a mixture of peat moss, manure, etc. that mushroom were grown on by the soup companies.
VIII. As a rule of thumb I use 4" - 6" of the compost on top of the soil and dig it in 18". The amount depends upon what your soil is like to begin with. A brand new home will probably need more and don't let the builder bury any of his stone, mortor or and debris from the building. All of these pieces must be removed. The ideal situation is to dig it in the fall and let is sit over the winter to allow the freezing and thawing to break the clay even more and then dig the bed again in the spring before planting.
IX. Over the winter or before you purchase your plants make a list of the plants you want. Make a list for each season so you will have something blooming at all times. Once you have the soil prepared you are ready to plant.
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